Dear everyone at home,hope you're having fun being cold. This is me.
love,
Joyce
Tales of teaching English with the JET Program on a small Japanese island in the East China Sea.

She further explains that Japanese people as a whole love mayonnaise and eat it on everything; they dip all sorts of vegetables into it (the examples given were radishes and celery) or they smear it onto cooked vegetables (such as broccoli), or heap it all over a bowl of cabbage. Or a pizza. Or anything really. They like to slather a thick layer of mayo on slices of bread and toast it. As she continued to list
mayo-appropriate items, a particularly horrific encounter of my friend Christina was recalled to my mind. At the time, I had envisioned the offending bun to have been a fluke of sorts, but I saw now that it was not!
Now, I don't know how many of you have ever ridden a motorcycle, or if so, a giant Harley with a Boozefighter-maniac at its wheel. Handles. Whatever. Well, I have. Let me say that this was my first time on a motorcycle.

Occasionally, we would spy a fellow Pineapple cart through the dense undergrowth. I felt that the best course of action at such times was to wave frantically with one hand and snap dozens of photos with the other. Slick and Chrissy kept their cool and listened to the pineapple lady's spiel instead. After the journey through the jungle/pineapple fields, the cart let you off at the pineapple winery. Here, you can look at where they produce pineapple wine through glass panes, but unfortunately you cant really get too much info on the actual process. Then you enter the TASTING ROOMS. These rooms are where the pineapple park hopes that a tourist, by shoving as many free samples of pineapple products into their stomach as they want, will be convinced to buy something. 
After a heart-filled group cheer (one more time? "I LOVE OKINAWA, WE LOVE OKINAWA!") we set out for 1.5 hours of cruising the beach with our tongs, gloves, trash bags and good company. After that, about 25 volunteers rejoiced with hotdogs, beers, and new-found feelings of Good Doing. Next time, fellow JETers, next time.
Sunset over Tonaki Island from the top of one of its two mountains. It was a cloudy day, but a sudden break in the clouds gave us a glimpse of the sunset!
Whereas Ginowan is basically a city that blurs into a giant metropol on either side, stretching from Naha to Okinawa city along highway 58, Tonaki has a population of (almost!) 500 people. Jon teaches at the only school on the island, where he has a total of 47 students, ages 5-15. When it comes time to go to high school, the kids have to seperate from their families and move to the mainland.
Every MWF morning at 6.30 the citizens of Tonaki gather for community stretching and... sweeping. There are friendly barrels filled with straw brooms lining the islands dirt roads.
Everyone knows Jon. Most of the obaachans (little old ladies) on the island are desperately worried about his immediate survival, in fact. It seems a man alone is not capable of living long in Japan. So every few days, Jon finds homemade meals sitting on his doorstep, left by the Good Fairies of Tonaki. Sometimes, he even finds his shoes (which, in a rush, he left in a disarray heaped before his door) nicely straighted upon his return.
Jon has his own traditional Japanese style house, as well as a large garden with papaya trees and a hechima vineyard. Hechima is loofa: Okinawans eat this vegetable instead of washing themselves with it like we do. I think it's actually quite tasty, though Amy Sherman has some serious complaints about it. かめ- かめ-! Amy.
LEFT: Jon holds one of Tonaki's many butterflies for one of his young students to inspect. She is feeding it a flower (coming in from the left!)

The most interesting part of my visit to Tonaki was the Nighttime Spear Fishing expedition. For a full review of this sport, please read the article on Jons blog. Jon had already told me about his underwater adventures before I came to Tonaki, and despite my intense fear of water, I was determined to venture forth and conquer! Just as I had suspected, the experience turned out to be the most terrifying thing Id ever done (with the exception of 24 hours in 2001 that I spent with Crazy Henriette, the German autobahn, the Dutch police, that seedy nighttime wharf and sleeping in our broken down car in the middle of crack-ville of Amesterdam... I can tell you more about that in person if you so desire). In the middle of the night, Jon donned wis wetsuit and I (lacking a wetsuit) donned several layers of clothing. We also donned snorkels and big flippers on our footsies. Jons extremely friendly teacher, Nigo-sensei, picked us up and drove us out to the furthest point of the island. We parked the car and walked up the rocky beach by moonlight. We waded out into the ocean. Each adventurer was armed with an underwater flashlight. Jon and Sensei were armed with harpoon-like fish spears as well (you could both hold and cock them using only one hand and a rubber device, leaving the other hand free for the flashlight). I had passed up on the spear, knowing full-well that I would be dedicating all of my attention to not completely freaking out under-water in a choral reef in the middle of the night. Not to mention figuring out how to use the snorkel, which I had never used before. In fact, it occurred to me and I watched Sensei give a wave goodbye, and contemplated with a heavy heart the significance of his last words of friendly advice (`dont touch the dangerous fish`) I hadnt really EVER swam with my head underwater... Id certainly never had my eyes open underwater... and the longest I had kept myself afloat at all in the last 6 years had probably been the 5 minute Swim Test that Id had to pass to graduate from college.
Here is a foto of an Okinawan coral reef... I didn't take it, nor is it the one where I was, but it's just to give you an idea, incase you've never been underwater like me!
The next day, we hiked mountain number 2 with Nigo sensei and his family. This was a longer and more strenuous hike (since we'd actually cheated and drove up mountain #1 the day before). But it sure was worth it... at the end we saw a very nice view of Tonaki and even some sunset. We also played with Nigo sensei's children, who are cool lil chittins. I'll tell ya, those Tonaki kids sure know how to count to 10 in English. If there's one thing they can aaaaaaall do, it's count to 10.
That evening, we decided to have another go at night fishing... this time without getting wet. We grabbed Jon's fishing pole and mosied down to the peer. Apparently fishing at night is really popular on small islands where there is nothing else to do. There were 5 fishing poles already set up on the peer (they attach these glow in the dark things to the ends of the stick at night so they can see them move if they're bitten).
However, after a while we decided that the five poles all belonged to this one fellow who'd just laid down on the concrete and was happily snoring away, waiting for a fish to bite. We spent most of our fishing time discussing how the Tonakan would know if he caught a fish, and never got an answer. He didn't catch any and neither did we, but it was good fun all the same. Here is me fishing, another first!
Go Team! On Thursday I volunteered at Nahanishi (aka, smart kids' school) English camp. I taught 4 hour-long classes to groups of 20 students each, on the subject of my choice. Which was American Thanksgiving. I was giving them the watered down version of Thanksgiving, but you will all be proud to know that I did manage to get the words religious minority, and genocide onto their vocab sheet, tucked away somewhere between mashed potatoes and squash.
Nancy and Yvonne are the nuns from hell!
Andy, Jaimee, Dave and Alisa were all very well dressed.
Robyn (the nurse) did Abi's makeup and hair for him.
Amy, Jenny, and Christina all made their own costumes and won best group prize for female superheros!
Cat in the Hat won best female costume! There's Christina too.
Juli from Hawaii was the world's cutest Goya Girl. goya is a very bitter vegetable that they eat here on okinawa.
Michael is Scottish. Doesn't he exude that quality?