Okinawa Christmas

I am determined for Christmas to come visit me at my house this year in Okinawa. Though, I may not be as determined as these naicha from the snowy reaches of northern mainland Japan, who were playing some really bad tunes (couldn't tell if they were supposed to be xmas tunes, or whether the costumes and music were unrelated... typical Japanese) on kokusaidori in front of the 7/11 Friday evening.

As I was saying, I am determined for Christmas to come to Okinawa. Forget that the weather refuses to comply (it's in the seventies), and that no one on this island has ever seen snow. Despite everything working against the Okinawans, they have embraced all the trim and trappings of Christmas (though none of the rest) with great communal enthusiasm. Plastic trees covered in bobbles are to be found in every shop's windows. Businesses have painted their panes with Santas and sleighs and very large HO HO HOs. And I have already sited at least 3 Okinawans wearing Santa hats as they drive along in their cars. Best of all (Hilary will be happy to hear this) my local grocery store has packed up the deadly Grocery Store theme song that is blasted at top volume on loop 24/7, and broken out the Christmas tunes. Joy to the world, indeed.

With that thought in mind, I set out to purchase my tree.


It's a bit smaller than what I'm used to in America, but hey, you take what you can get. 6 inches, 3$, not a bad deal. Plus, I found a candy cane, which is no mean feat.

The thing that is really bringing cheer to the holiday season was my recent visit to the American grocery store on base. This might not sound like much to you (unless you're a JET, and in that case you are probably agog), but believe me, it's BIG news! I clearly remember some 2nd year JET telling me that was in fact impossible to get into the grocery stores on base. You can get a base pass from a military friend and go on: see movies, eat, whatever. But you have to present a military ID to get into the grocery store, and show it again at the checkout line. Basically a high-security vault. My Japanese friend Yuki is married to a marine and was determined to get me into the store (mostly so that I could show her what all the mysterious American food items are used for, and then teach her how to make christmas cookies.) After many whispered inquiries Yuki was informed that one particular base might not check each person's ID entering the store and then she could just pay at the checkout line (so they would check just her ID). Saturday was our day of glory! We succeeded! I was giddy with excitment as we walked the aisles. I ran back and forth, pointing and babbling like the crazy gaijin that I am. "Canned pumpkin mush! Look Yuki it's canned pumpkin mush!" Joyce stacks her arms full of giant cans of pumpkin mush and staggers towards the cart. Yuki: "Joyce-san," somewhat hesitantly, "you sure you need so many pumpkin mush? We come back whenever you want." "Yes yes, you're right of course" in her haste Joyce drops half the pumpkin mush cans on the floor, agrees to return 3 to the shelf, refuses to part with the remaining 2. Repeat scenario with every food item in the entire store. Yuki probably thinks I'm crazy.

Below, you can see the array of wonder that I purchased. Items included sour cream, sharp cheddar cheese, black beans, whole wheat pasta, applesauce, and Wheat Thins. These may sound like nothing special but I assure you, they are what life is all about.

Yay for Christmas and yay for base grocery stores!